Rabbit Nutrition

Rabbits are herbivores, meaning they eat plant products. They are hindgut fermenters, like horses. Hindgut fermenters have a large cecum, which is part of the intestine. The cecum acts like a fermentation vat for plant material, where plants are digested so the nutrients in them can be used.

Hay

Rabbits require lots of high-quality hay in their diets. Timothy hay and orchard grass are great, nutritious choices. Alfalfa and clover hay are not good options for adult rabbits, as they are too high in protein and calcium, but growing bunnies (under 8 months of age) should be provided with free-choice alfalfa hay.

Hay should be stored in a sealed container in a cool, dry, dark place. Exposure to heat and sunlight can cause the hay to lose nutrients. Hay should be fed within 6 months of harvest, when it is freshest and most nutritious.

Fresh greens

Rabbits also need a variety of fresh greenery. Dark, leafy greens such as basil, beet tops, bok choy, broccoli greens, carrot tops, cilantro, dandelion greens, dill, endive, kale, kohlrabi, romaine lettuce, and watercress are excellent options. Grass can also be a good choice, but it should be hand-pulled rather than mown with a lawn mower. Mustard greens, parsley, spinach, and Swiss chard are high in calcium, and these foods have long been cautioned against. However, there is limited scientific research showing that these greens are harmful to rabbits.

Iceberg lettuce is nutritionally inadequate and provides next to nothing to a rabbit’s diet; it should not be fed. Onions, garlic, and leeks can cause anemia in rabbits, which can be life-threatening, so these should be avoided as well.

Pellets

Pellets can be another component of a rabbit’s diet, though they are not required. Pellets should contain lots of crude fiber (more than 18% by dry matter) and indigestible fiber (more than 12% DM). The fat content of pellets should be between 2.5-4% DM, and protein should be between 12-16% DM.

Pellets should be stored in a sealed container in a cool, dry, dark place. Exposure to heat and sunlight can cause the pellets to lose nutrients rapidly. Pellets should be fed within 3 months of manufacture; several vitamins will no longer be viable after this point.

Young bunnies (under 8 months of age) should be provided with alfalfa pellets free-choice.

Rabbits are a foraging species and therefore require some enrichment when it comes to their meals. Hiding pellets and greens, placing food in different locations, and scattering hay encourage grazing and foraging behaviors.

Rabbits are grazers; they eat small amounts many times throughout the day. Rabbits should always have fresh hay available to meet their needs.

Safe treat options for rabbits include fresh fruits and vegetables such as apples, bell peppers, berries, broccoli, carrots, and cauliflower. Though these treats are safe and contain natural fiber, they are still high in sugar and should be limited.

Unsafe treats include most commercial treats and human foods. Biscuits, bread, cereal, crackers, nuts, raisins, seeds, and yogurt drops are high in sugars and do not contain fiber. Therefore, they should be avoided.

Changing your rabbit to a new type of hay or pellet can cause digestive upset. If you need to change the diet, you should do so very gradually, over the course of a week or longer.

This process is similar to changing the diet of dogs and cats, so you can visit How to transition your pet to a new diet for more details.

Obesity is a big problem for rabbits who receive too many pellets and treats. It is important to know how to assess your rabbit’s body condition and weight to ensure they are not becoming overweight or underweight.

There are no official guidelines for body condition scoring rabbits, but it should be similar to body condition scoring other species; you can visit How to body condition score to learn more. Overall, you should be able to feel your rabbit’s ribs by gently rubbing their sides, and you should not feel too much of a fat covering. 

Rabbits should be weighed regularly (once a month). They are very good at hiding illness, so weight loss can be the first sign of a problem. Smaller rabbits can be weighed on a gram scale, while larger rabbits may need a baby scale. You can always bring your rabbit to the veterinarian for regular weight checks, as they have the right equipment to get accurate weight readings.

Rabbits, like horses and cows, have hypsodont teeth. This means their teeth continuously erupt (“grow”) throughout their life. Eating a diet high in roughage (plant material) helps rabbits grind their teeth down and keep them healthy.

Malocclusion is a very common dental problem in rabbits. This means the teeth don’t line up properly and become overgrown. This can lead to issues such as loss of appetite, weight loss, mouth sores, and broken teeth. Brachycephalic rabbits, those with smushed-in faces, often have more dental problems than other rabbits.

Rabbits should see the veterinarian once a year for a full physical exam that includes a thorough oral exam. Rabbits with dental issues should visit the vet more often and may require regular tooth trimming or filing so they don’t become too overgrown.

Providing a diet full of high-quality hay will help prevent dental issues. Rabbits will also chew on wood blocks, toys, and sticks to keep their teeth healthy.